Nujiang

The dry season has more sunny days, making it a good time to plan a mountain-road self-drive trip.

The Nujiang Grand Canyon retains a relatively untouched natural and cultural character, with few overly commercialized old towns. Driving north along the G219 Nujiang Beautiful Highway, you can see rushing river waters, villages in the clouds and deep-cut canyons along the way, making it ideal for a road trip.

• Laomudeng Village: This Nu ethnic village sits halfway up the mountain, directly opposite Crown Mountain. The century-old red-and-white Christian church often appears and disappears in the mist. On Sundays, you may also hear a four-part Lisu choir. Open your window at your accommodation and you may see a sea of clouds.

• Ziziluo: This was once the seat of the Nujiang prefectural government, but was abandoned in 1986 after geological hazards were forecast. Old buildings, the octagonal tower and slogans from that period have been preserved, allowing visitors to experience the urban memories of the 1970s and 1980s without an entrance fee.

• Bingzhongluo: Known locally as the “place where humans and gods live together,” Bingzhongluo has been home to Tibetan Buddhism, Catholicism and Christianity for a century. Snowy mountains, terraced fields and churches share the same landscape, creating a strong pastoral atmosphere.

• First Bend of the Nujiang River: Near Bingzhongluo, the Nujiang forms a huge Ω-shaped bend as it follows the terrain. Emerald-green water surrounds a pastoral peninsula, and the full bend can be viewed from the lookout, which offers a wide panorama.

• Wuli Village: The village sits beside the Nujiang. Before entering, you need to cross 1.5 kilometers of cliffside Tea Horse Road and suspension bridges. Wooden houses, cooking smoke and streams create a peaceful village scene, while the relatively secluded way of life has been preserved.

• Denggeng Hot Springs: There are 18 natural hot-spring pools here. While soaking in the springs along the river, you can face the Nujiang. Denggeng Hot Springs is also the birthplace of the local Lisu “Spring Bathing” tradition.

Best Time to Visit

• Dry season (October to April): The river is usually clear and emerald green, with more sunny days and relatively fewer landslides and falling rocks. This is a good time to visit the Nujiang area.
• Rainy season (June to August): The vegetation is at its most lush, but rainfall is frequent, and you may encounter falling rocks, landslides and road restrictions. Travel with elderly people or children is not recommended.

Classic 6-Day, 5-Night Self-Drive Route (South to North, No Backtracking)

• Day 1: After arriving in Liuku (Lushui), check into your hotel and rest. Before evening, head to Denggeng Hot Springs for a wild hot-spring soak. You can also try a cross-river cable slide, and have a Lisu-style hand-held dinner.
• Day 2: Leave Liuku and travel via Laohutiao to Laomudeng. Stop at the Laohutiao lookout to watch the rushing Nujiang, arrive at Laomudeng Village in the afternoon, visit the Christian church, then head to the Crown Mountain lookout for sunset.

• Day 3: Travel from Laomudeng to Ziziluo, then continue north to Fugong. In the morning, explore the old town of Ziziluo and see its preserved old buildings and traces of the past era. In the afternoon, continue to Fugong, enjoying canyon scenery along the way.

• Day 4: The route is Fugong → Stone Moon → Gongshan → First Bend of the Nujiang River → Bingzhongluo. At the Stone Moon lookout, you can see a natural opening through the rock from a distance. In the evening, watch the great U-shaped bend at the First Bend of the Nujiang River, then check into your accommodation in Bingzhongluo.

• Day 5: Spend the day exploring Bingzhongluo in depth. In the morning, head to Wuli Village and hike along the Tea Horse Road. In the afternoon, take a walk around the Bingzhongluo basin and visit Chongding Church and Puhua Temple, taking in the peaceful local village-and-town setting.
• Day 6: Return from Bingzhongluo to Liuku via Gongshan, following the same road south. Alternatively, you can leave from Baoshan or Dali.

Transport and Accommodation Tips

• Getting there: Nujiang Prefecture currently has no airport or high-speed railway. You can fly to Baoshan Yunrui Airport or Dali Fengyi Airport, then rent a car and drive yourself or hire a private car to Liuku.
• Road conditions: Most of the route follows the G219 Nujiang Beautiful Highway. The roads are paved and accessible to both sedans and SUVs. The mountain roads have many bends and run close to cliffs, with speed limits of 40–60 km/h. Night driving is not recommended.
• Private car reference: If you are unfamiliar with mountain roads, you can hire a local car. The cost is about 500–800 yuan per day, and having the driver also act as a guide is more convenient.
• Where to stay:
  • Liuku: This is Nujiang’s transport hub, with many hotels and a relatively wide range of prices, making it a good stopover.

• Laomudeng: Accommodation mainly consists of hillside guesthouses. Some rooms overlook the sea of clouds and Crown Mountain. Prices are about 200–300 yuan per night, and the area is suitable for arranging an early-morning sunrise view.

• Bingzhongluo: Local accommodation mainly consists of Tibetan-style guesthouses and riverside homestays. Prices are about 160–260 yuan per night, making it easy to enjoy the surrounding mountains and rivers.

Must-Try Local Foods

• Lisu hand-held feast: Usually served with roast suckling pig, bamboo-tube rice and wild vegetables. It costs 40–80 yuan per person; booking in advance through your guesthouse is recommended.

• Chicken with lacquer-tree oil: Chicken is stewed with oil made from lacquer-tree seeds. This is a common nourishing dish in the area and has a strong flavor. People with allergies should eat it with caution.

• Stone-slab baba: Buckwheat baba is cooked on a heated stone slab, resulting in a fragrant, sweet and soft texture.

• Nujiang rice-flower fish: The fish are raised on river water and rice flowers. You can order them grilled or stewed in soup, and the meat is relatively tender and fresh.

Travel Notes

• Signal and navigation: Long stretches of the road from Fugong to Gongshan and from Gongshan to Bingzhongluo have no mobile signal. Download the Nujiang Prefecture offline map in advance.
• Documents: A border pass is not required if you are only visiting the Grand Canyon and Bingzhongluo. If you plan to travel to Dulongjiang or areas north of Qiunatong, you need to apply for a border pass free of charge at your place of household registration or at a local police station.
• Cash: Some villages, such as Qiunatong, do not accept mobile payments. It is recommended to carry 500–1,000 yuan in cash.
• Driving safety: The mountain roads have many bends and run close to cliffs. Do not overtake or drive too close to the edge. There are gas stations in the towns and villages along the route, but make sure you have enough fuel before entering the mountains.
• What to wear: During the dry season, daytime temperatures are in the 20s Celsius, while nighttime temperatures may fall to just a few degrees. The day–night temperature difference is significant. Wear layers such as a T-shirt, fleece and waterproof jacket, and bring SPF 50+ sunscreen and sunglasses.
• Respect local customs: Remain quiet when entering churches. Before photographing villagers or women with facial tattoos, smile first and ask for their permission.