Yongzhou

Yongzhou lies in southern Hunan, where mountain and river scenery sits alongside historic sites. Liu Zongyuan’s Eight Accounts of Yongzhou and the journeys of Xu Xiake add literary and historical context to the city. Commercial development is relatively restrained, and you can stroll along the Xiaoshui River or explore local food through southern Hunan dishes.

Lingling Historic Streets and Sites

• Liuzi Temple: First built during the Song dynasty, this temple commemorates Liu Zongyuan. Highlights include the “Three Perfections Stele,” featuring text by Han Yu and calligraphy by Su Shi. Admission is about RMB 25.

• Liuzi Street: This thousand-year-old street has stone paving, old wooden houses, and small shops selling goods related to traditional crafts and other intangible cultural heritage. Commercial development is limited, and you can walk around and take photos free of charge.

• Xiaoshitan (Little Stone Pool): Follow a bamboo-lined path beside Yuxi Stream to reach the setting of Liu Zongyuan’s Account of Little Stone Pool. Clear water is surrounded by bamboo and trees, and admission is free.

• Lingling Ancient City: This traditional-style district sits between hills and water, with creative goods shops and restaurants along its intersecting lanes. Admission is free. The streets are especially good for photos when the lanterns light up at dusk.

• Pingzhou Academy: One of the four great academies of the Hunan region, it stands on a river island at the confluence of the Xiaoshui and Xiangjiang rivers and must be reached by boat. The island is peaceful, with views over the meeting of the two rivers.

Mountains, Rivers, and Riverside Views

• Dongshan Scenic Area: This natural high point in Lingling contains the Martial Temple and Gaoshan Temple. Climb up in the evening for views of the old city, the Xiaoshui River, and the sunset. Admission is free.

• Xiake Ferry Crossing: This historic ferry crossing, once visited by Xu Xiake, now has a floating bridge across the Xiaoshui River. The bridge sways underfoot, and the riverside breeze is pleasant in the evening.

• Huilong Pagoda: This Ming-dynasty pagoda stands beside the Xiaoshui River and is known for its blue-and-white colors and distinctive shape. For a photo of the entire pagoda with a simple backdrop, choose a spot on the opposite bank.

• Chaoyang Cave: Named by the Tang-dynasty writer Yuan Jie, this riverside cave has an east-facing entrance that catches the sunrise. Inside are more than 150 stone inscriptions dating from the Tang and Song through the Ming and Qing dynasties, offering a glimpse of the writings left by scholars over the centuries.

Exploring the Surrounding Counties

• Jiuyi Mountain: Located in Ningyuan County, this mountain is home to the tomb of Emperor Shun, a legendary ancestor of Chinese civilization. Its imposing mountain scenery complements its historic sites. It is well suited to a self-drive trip, with time set aside for a thorough visit.

• Yangming Mountain: This national forest park in Shuangpai County offers azaleas in spring and relief from the heat in summer. It is a good addition to the itinerary for visitors who enjoy forest scenery and hiking.

Local Food in Yongzhou

• Yongzhou Duck with Duck Blood: This Hunan dish uses local speckled ducks, cut into large pieces and first cooked to render their fat, then stir-fried so that duck blood coats the meat. The finished dish is tender with a slight crispness and a rich flavor. The sauce is also good mixed into rice.

• Dong’an Chicken: Known as a “state banquet favorite” and “the foremost of Hunan’s eight signature dishes,” this dish uses young hens seasoned with rice vinegar, Sichuan peppercorns, and chilies. The chicken is firm and savory, with sour, numbing, and spicy flavors.

• Yongzhou Rice Noodles with Braising Sauce: A common local breakfast, this dish starts with smooth, round rice noodles topped with a special braising sauce, thick slices of braised beef, crunchy peanuts, and chopped scallions. The overall flavor is savory and rich.

• Yongzhou River Snails: A common late-night dish. Live freshwater snails have the tips of their shells removed, then are stir-fried over high heat with perilla and pickled chilies so the savory, spicy sauce reaches the meat. The snails are eaten by sucking the meat from the shells.

• Qiyang Red Yeast Rice Fish: This dish, recognized as intangible cultural heritage, is made by fermenting and curing fresh fish with red yeast rice, then steaming it. The fish turns bright red and has a soft, delicate texture with a spicy, rich flavor.

Suggested Itineraries

• One Day (Central Lingling): Walk along Liuzi Street in the morning, then visit Liuzi Temple and the original site of Little Stone Pool. For lunch, try Yongzhou duck with duck blood and rice noodles with braising sauce nearby. In the afternoon, walk across the floating bridge at Xiake Ferry Crossing and enjoy the river breeze, or take a boat to Pingzhou Academy. Head up to Dongshan Scenic Area at dusk for the sunset and views of the old city after dark.
• Two Days (History and River Views): Follow the one-day route on the first day. On the second morning, visit the cliff inscriptions at Chaoyang Cave, then explore Lingling Ancient City and Huilong Pagoda in the afternoon. After dark, try night-market barbecue and river snails in Lengshuitan or Lingling.
• Three Days (The City and Surrounding Area): Spend the first two days in Lingling District. On the third day, drive to Ningyuan County to visit Jiuyi Mountain and Emperor Shun’s Tomb, or head to Yangming Mountain National Forest Park in Shuangpai County for forest scenery and a cool, relaxing break.

Transport and Accommodation

• Transport: High-speed trains can take you to Yongzhou Station or Lingling Station. Lingling Station is in the old urban area, making it convenient for sightseeing. From Yongzhou Station, an intercity bus or taxi to Lingling takes about 40 minutes. The main urban sights are clustered in Lingling District and can be reached by taxi or shared electric scooter. For sights in the surrounding counties, such as Jiuyi Mountain and Yangming Mountain, driving or hiring a car with a driver is recommended.
• Accommodation: Guesthouses and inns around Lingling Ancient City and Liuzi Street are convenient for evening walks and meals. Allow roughly RMB 150–300 per person per night as a budget guide.

Practical Travel Tips

• Meal Times: Some long-established local restaurants, including those serving duck with duck blood, may close between 2 and 4 p.m. Plan to eat between 11:30 a.m. and 1 p.m., or between 5:30 and 7 p.m., to avoid arriving when they are closed.
• Shared Electric Scooter Boundaries: When using shared electric scooters in Lingling District, check the operating boundaries and do not cross Xiaoshui Bridge. A scooter may lose power as soon as it leaves the service area, leaving you to push it on uphill sections.
• Mosquitoes and Sun Protection: Mosquitoes are common around Little Stone Pool, Yuxi Stream, and the riverbanks, so carry insect repellent when walking. UV exposure can also be strong beside the river during the day, so use sun protection.
• Buying Dong’an Chicken: When buying Dong’an chicken from a vendor, choose the live chicken yourself and watch it being slaughtered. Check whether the vendor instead offers a chicken that is already dark in color.